Step 1: Lay the foundation
Find a day when you have time to spare so you’re not rushing to perfect your look. Start by applying your usual base of face makeup – a simple covering of foundation will do fine. Make sure you’re working in natural light to get an accurate idea of what you’ll look like when you go out.
Step 2: Deepen the shadows
Take your dark-toned foundation and add a small amount onto an applicator sponge. Suck in your cheeks to create a hollow and brush makeup from your ears down into it. Next, apply along your hairline and under your jaw. You can also do the sides of your nose if you want to make it appear smaller.
Remember that you can always build up the colour with repeated applications, but it’s much harder to tone it down if you use too much.
Step 3: Brighten the lights
Now take a shade a few tones lighter than your foundation and dab it onto a flat brush. Draw thin lines from between your eyebrows to an inch or so up your forehead. Draw more lines down the bridge of your nose and at the tip of your chin.
The largest area to highlight is above the cheekbone. Draw a curved triangle down from the edges of your eyes to above the hollow of your cheeks and fill it in with pale foundation. The exact size will depend on your natural face shape, but the light and dark patches of makeup should be separated by a couple of centimetres.
Step 4: Blend it smooth
At this point you’ll have rather severe lines and shapes drawn on your face in various colours, which might look a little concerning. Don’t worry, though. This is the part where you blend it all down to look natural and flattering.
Blend the dark colours in first with a clean sponge, working from the centre of your face out, until you’re left with a warm shadow. Next do the same for the light colours. The two tones should never blend together, only with your base foundation. A final dusting of neutral loose powder will help pull the whole look together. Voila!