House of Fraser Blog

It’s been a very busy day today, with a jam packed line up, we’ve been running around Londontown with barely a second to spare.

Now, let’s get straight down to business. The season is Autumn/Winter, the year 2010-2011, so expect moody palettes and ostentatious knitwear. Fashion Week was opened by British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tillman, and the Prime Minister’s wife Sarah Brown. With talk of up and coming initiatives to help promising designers the future looks optimistic. However, it was the tragic death of Lee Alexander McQueen, which was on everyone’s mind. A minute silence was held, and a tribute wall has been created. And in remembering McQueen we are reminded that there are pure genius designers out there, and it is our job to find them and give them the careers they deserve.

Back to the fashion, up first was Paul Costello, and what a racy start. With a collection that looked like a naughty period drama, it was a striking show. Leather hotpants and trousers were teamed with finely tailored riding jackets. Mini skirts in a bustle shape looked more Louis Vuitton than Paul Costello, and floor length military coats were really rather droolworthy. The palette consisted of metallic brocades, antique gold, navy blues and lots of black.

Maria Grachvogel’s collection showed us that winter doesn’t have to mean head-to-toe black, she sent down vibrant reds and a zesty lime sitting alongside gorgeous greys. Draping was a key look here, and had a real Halston edge to the collection. Here we saw full length and mid length dresses as well as the fashion fave, the jumpsuit. We were particularly loving the swirl prints.

Prints and draping was seen again at Aminaka Wilmont, which had a much more wearable look than previous seasons. Once more the palette had a strong focus on storm greys and blues.

Hakaan was the surprise of the day, with Kate Moss in attendance and Lara Stone walking for the newcomer designer. The look was far more structured, with an angular take on body con, it was a little bit sci-fi in its look.

From one newcomer to another, David Koma has just burst onto the scene, thanks to Cheryl Cole wearing one of his creations on the X Factor. Koma’s style is also very much about structure, and this collection has a distinctly zig-zag style. There is no denying that he knows how to tailor to a woman’s body, but sometimes less is more, and his simpler pieces were the most striking.

Body Amr cut a strong silhouette, this was power dressing for 2010. As well as structured dresses, draping was also a key look seen in maxi dresses and jumpsuits, the floor length white gowns, really stole the show. Fans Nicola Roberts and Rachel Stevens looked suitably impressed.

Danielle Scutt’s presentation was also working the love affair with grey. As ever, her designs were much more street and a little edgier, like the shirt pictured above. Scutt has a great eye for detail, and her sheer panelled dress is on the top of our wish list.

Key looks:

• Draping: Grecian goddess meets 70s style
• Grey: From charcoal to mushroom
• Structure: If it’s not floaty it’s architectural

Check back for more fashion week coverage and part two. If you want up to the minute coverage then follow us on Twitter: http://twitter.com/Hotathof